Is it just me, or is there a reason I can't get the block management layer to show up in Montana? I've activated it and de-activated it multiple times with the transparency at 100%, and nothing comes up.
The reason for shooting bare shaft through paper as a starting point is to achieve the perfect spine for the combination of shaft (spine stiffness)/point weight/fletching/nock/wraps. set your rest to the bow manufacturers center shot measurement, The cut your shaft. I usually get close by looking at manufacturers chart with the combination of point weight I want to use and cut my arrow an 1 1/2" to 2" longer than my draw length as a starting point which usually makes my arrow weak (if I want to really go deep into it, i'll wrap an amount of electrical tape around the back end to simulate with weight of the fletching). I then shoot (at 6 feet from the paper), usually with a weak tear (nock left for right handed shooter). I then incrementally cut down my arrow on the nock end, since i've usually glued in the insert and put a field point on it, and slowly that horizontal tear will go away. I then focus on the vertical tear and adjust my rest up or down until i have a perfect bullet hole, never moving my rest left or right from center shot. I then move back to 12 feet and and make any slight adjustments if necessary.
Now you have a perfectly spined arrow for your specific draw length/poundage. fletch up arrows, go the range and bare shaft/french/walkback/nock your prefered final tune.
When shooting your bareshaft through paper, focus on good form, minimize torque and face pressure on the string. it will show with inconsistencies on your tears.
3 years ago
Using public land layer map research to your advantageIs it just me, or is there a reason I can't get the block management layer to show up in Montana? I've activated it and de-activated it multiple times with the transparency at 100%, and nothing comes up.
5 years ago
The well-tuned hunting bowThe reason for shooting bare shaft through paper as a starting point is to achieve the perfect spine for the combination of shaft (spine stiffness)/point weight/fletching/nock/wraps. set your rest to the bow manufacturers center shot measurement, The cut your shaft. I usually get close by looking at manufacturers chart with the combination of point weight I want to use and cut my arrow an 1 1/2" to 2" longer than my draw length as a starting point which usually makes my arrow weak (if I want to really go deep into it, i'll wrap an amount of electrical tape around the back end to simulate with weight of the fletching). I then shoot (at 6 feet from the paper), usually with a weak tear (nock left for right handed shooter). I then incrementally cut down my arrow on the nock end, since i've usually glued in the insert and put a field point on it, and slowly that horizontal tear will go away. I then focus on the vertical tear and adjust my rest up or down until i have a perfect bullet hole, never moving my rest left or right from center shot. I then move back to 12 feet and and make any slight adjustments if necessary.
Now you have a perfectly spined arrow for your specific draw length/poundage. fletch up arrows, go the range and bare shaft/french/walkback/nock your prefered final tune.
When shooting your bareshaft through paper, focus on good form, minimize torque and face pressure on the string. it will show with inconsistencies on your tears.