I did do that. I think I started at 6 yards and bareshaft tested at various yardages back to 30. Still no dice. I blame that Ranch Fairy for costing me so much in arrows and tip hardware! I definitely think he is on to something with the higher FOC, stiffer arrows, and bareshaft tuning. If you can get the bareshaft tune he talks about then you are set; I just don't think its absolutely necessarily so long as your arrow is not paradoxing at impact (he talks about this, too). By the time your arrow gets to the deer or elk you want it lined out so that all the KE is right behind the very tip of that broad head. If it is tailing at all then you are wasting KE. I think if the bareshaft is close then fletchings will get you there by the time your arrow is at 5-10 yards. I got the impact point the same but shafts not quite parallel so I settled on an Axis 260 with a 175 minimum in the head (still testing). I might go as high as 275 in the head.
I was in this same boat Jordan and I was never able to overcome it. Not saying it couldn't be done but I tried 8 different shafts and I couldn't do it. You don't shoot bare shafts when you hunt so it doesn't really matter. In fact, its basically like a totally different arrow. Here is another opinion on the matter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2NI8SKBBbc Btw, someone is about to tell you that its your arrow spine. I tested between 200 spine and 340 and never got parallel shafts to fletched. Fletch them and walk-back tune them.
Good thoughts. I asked a buddy (more of a bow guru than I) and he said the exact same thing. Bareshaft tuning for compounds seems to be the rage now. I desperately wanted to find an arrow and tip combo that basically didn't need fletchings. I tried 7 different arrows between 200 and 340 spine point weights from 100 to 200. No dice. The shafts always cross each other (fletched compared to not). I picked the one that worked the best (Axis 260) and walk back tuned it... seems to work. Not sure what it looks like through paper though.
I'm missing something. Can someone explain why you wouldn't just start with the French Tune i.e. walk-back tune. It seems to me that if you don't have walk back tuning then everything else is secondary and you will do this so you don't have to figure in Kentucky Windage. If I had a perfect paper tune and my 20 yard arrow and 50 yard arrow had 5 inches of horizontal differences I would jump ship on the paper tune to get the walk-back tune...
5 years ago
The well-tuned hunting bowI did do that. I think I started at 6 yards and bareshaft tested at various yardages back to 30. Still no dice. I blame that Ranch Fairy for costing me so much in arrows and tip hardware! I definitely think he is on to something with the higher FOC, stiffer arrows, and bareshaft tuning. If you can get the bareshaft tune he talks about then you are set; I just don't think its absolutely necessarily so long as your arrow is not paradoxing at impact (he talks about this, too). By the time your arrow gets to the deer or elk you want it lined out so that all the KE is right behind the very tip of that broad head. If it is tailing at all then you are wasting KE. I think if the bareshaft is close then fletchings will get you there by the time your arrow is at 5-10 yards. I got the impact point the same but shafts not quite parallel so I settled on an Axis 260 with a 175 minimum in the head (still testing). I might go as high as 275 in the head.
5 years ago
The well-tuned hunting bowI was in this same boat Jordan and I was never able to overcome it. Not saying it couldn't be done but I tried 8 different shafts and I couldn't do it. You don't shoot bare shafts when you hunt so it doesn't really matter. In fact, its basically like a totally different arrow. Here is another opinion on the matter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2NI8SKBBbc
Btw, someone is about to tell you that its your arrow spine. I tested between 200 spine and 340 and never got parallel shafts to fletched. Fletch them and walk-back tune them.
5 years ago
The well-tuned hunting bowGood thoughts. I asked a buddy (more of a bow guru than I) and he said the exact same thing. Bareshaft tuning for compounds seems to be the rage now. I desperately wanted to find an arrow and tip combo that basically didn't need fletchings. I tried 7 different arrows between 200 and 340 spine point weights from 100 to 200. No dice. The shafts always cross each other (fletched compared to not). I picked the one that worked the best (Axis 260) and walk back tuned it... seems to work. Not sure what it looks like through paper though.
5 years ago
The well-tuned hunting bowI'm missing something. Can someone explain why you wouldn't just start with the French Tune i.e. walk-back tune. It seems to me that if you don't have walk back tuning then everything else is secondary and you will do this so you don't have to figure in Kentucky Windage. If I had a perfect paper tune and my 20 yard arrow and 50 yard arrow had 5 inches of horizontal differences I would jump ship on the paper tune to get the walk-back tune...