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Point Creep: What is it? Can you overcome it? and much more -
posted 8 months ago
We have OTC hunts that we fall back on every year when we are building points or don’t get a tag during the draw. You can easily get good quality hunts every year for deer and elk and by hunting every year you’ll get yourself ready for when you pull that good tag.
On the OTC hunts, figure out how to out hunt the others in the unit. Get in better shape, key in your rifle platform better, work harder, scout or e-scout ahead of time, etc and you’ll have success every year.
5% of the people punch 95% of the tags, OTC or draw hunts.
I was on a good draw hunt a couple years back and quite a few of the other people I talked with weren’t seeing deer. Just because it’s a draw doesn’t mean you won’t have to hunt the unit.
Robby Denning made this a point in his mule deer hunting book - hunt every year so you can build your skill set for when you actually draw a tag.
MOA Part 2 - A deeper dive into factory vs custom -
posted 1 year ago
Donald - A smaller bullet with higher BC will have less wind drift. If you shoot a 175 gr .308 bullet with the same BC as a 280 gr .338 bullet they will have the same wind drift. If you shoot a .308 cal bullet with a higher BC than the .338 bullet the .308 will have less wind drift.
Casey - We’ll said. I’m on my 3rd scope on my Winchester Model 70. I’ve gone through so many iterations with this rifle but now that I’ve gone through it I think I can build another rifle easily.
It’s really about a shooting system when you extend the yardage. You need a good handle on your BC, know your muzzle velocity with small variation, know your environment with a Kestrel, range with a good rangefinder, and firing solution from those inputs. Even if a guy can shoot .25” at 100 yards, can you hit a deer at 613 yards on the first shot?
OK video but I think it’s a little slanted. I do think it’s possible to get extremely good accuracy from a factory gun, as Applied Ballistics showed. Sending the gun to Applied Ballistics and having that company tune maximum accuracy out of the rifle is about as good as you can get. I don’t think the average hunter has a chance on doing that. Brian Litz literally writes the book on long range shooting and is an extremely accomplished shooter.
I think this video downplayed the importance of that difference between a factory gun and a custom rifle package gunwerks is selling. There is a huge knowledge base there, from understanding ballistics, environment, muzzle velocity, ballistic coefficients, handloading etc. That’s a lot of what they’re selling and I think it’s a good product.
I have spent years trying to master that difference, from hand loading trying to reduce extreme muzzle velocity spreads and SD, using temperature stable powders, reading environmental conditions, using and throwing away different chronographs, etc.
I don’t own a Gunwerks rifle but I can tell you the few $1000 difference in price between the factory gun and custom gun package I’ve burned through in ammo, reloading equipment, range trips; etc.
FWIW - The example Browning used on group size with the wrong twist rate was kind of ridiculous. Rifles have been made with SAAMI spec chambers and rifle twists as standard for the caliber. Ammunition manufacturers consider the SAAMI specs and twist rate of standard rifles in calibers they are manufacturing ammo for so their ammo will be stabilized in most rifles of a given caliber. For example, .308 Win rifles have been historically made with 1:12 twist barrels and that would not be sufficient to stabilize around 190 or 200 gr and heavier long range designed projectiles. Therefore, you’ll see most shelf ammo built in for long range (long, high BC bullets) around 175 gr or so for 308 Win so it can be stabilized.
Newer, high BC long range bullets are requiring faster twist rates than in past years and I see browning is addressing that. I saw the .300 Win Mag has 1:8 twist whereas standard in older rifles is 1:10. I think they’re overselling it though.
My “custom” gun is my first whitetail rifle from growing up, rebarreled with a Broughton 1:10 twist barrel, glass bedded action, extended magazine well for longer bullets, topped with a night force 5-20 x 56 SHV scope.
Building the ultimate hunting kill kit -
posted 1 year ago
One thing I would add is a decent pair of thicker gloves that are workable when quartering and boning meat. These would really be specific to heavily timbered early season hunts. In North Idaho, hornets are everywhere and they are carnivorous. Once you get the meat out, the hornets are all over it while you’re working on it. The gloves let you swat them away and prevent getting stung. They’re a big pain if you have to swat them away with bare hands.